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In 2002, the regularized version of the KP equation, naturally referred to as the Benjamin–Bona–Mahony–Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation (or simply the BBM-KP equation), was introduced as an alternative model for small amplitude long waves in shallow water moving mainly in the x direction in 2+1 space.
Intuitively the wave envelope is the "global profile" of the wave, which "contains" changing "local profiles inside the global profile". Each propagates at generally different speeds determined by the important function called the dispersion relation.
The wave equation is a second-order linear partial differential equation for the description of waves or standing wave fields such as mechanical waves (e.g. water waves, sound waves and seismic waves) or electromagnetic waves (including light waves). It arises in fields like acoustics, electromagnetism, and fluid dynamics.
Boussinesq approximation (water waves) – Approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves; Mild-slope equation – Physics phenomenon and formula; Shallow water equations – Set of partial differential equations that describe the flow below a pressure surface in a fluid; Stokes drift – Average velocity of a fluid parcel in a ...
The force pushing the water towards the low pressure region is called the pressure gradient force. In a geostrophic flow, instead of water moving from a region of high pressure (or high sea level) to a region of low pressure (or low sea level), it moves along the lines of equal pressure . That occurs because the Earth rotates.
These waves are called coastal Kelvin waves. Using the assumption that the cross-shore velocity v is zero at the coast, v = 0, one may solve a frequency relation for the phase speed of coastal Kelvin waves, which are among the class of waves called boundary waves, edge waves, trapped waves, or surface waves (similar to the Lamb waves). [3]
Kinematic wave can be described by a simple partial differential equation with a single unknown field variable (e.g., the flow or wave height, ) in terms of the two independent variables, namely the time and the space with some parameters (coefficients) containing information about the physics and geometry of the flow. In general, the wave can ...
Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.