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Cross sea near Lisbon, Portugal. A cross sea (also referred to as a squared sea or square waves [a]) is a sea state of wind-generated ocean waves that form nonparallel wave systems. Cross seas have a large amount of directional spreading. [1] This may occur when water waves from one weather system continue despite a shift in wind.
In fluid dynamics, a wind wave, or wind-generated water wave, is a surface wave that occurs on the free surface of bodies of water as a result of the wind blowing over the water's surface. The contact distance in the direction of the wind is known as the fetch. Waves in the oceans can travel thousands of kilometers before reaching land.
A diving grebe creates surface waves. In physics, a surface wave is a mechanical wave that propagates along the interface between differing media. A common example is gravity waves along the surface of liquids, such as ocean waves. Gravity waves can also occur within liquids, at the interface between two fluids with different densities.
An ocean current is a continuous, directed movement of seawater generated by a number of forces acting upon the water, including wind, the Coriolis effect, breaking waves, cabbeling, and temperature and salinity differences. [1] Depth contours, shoreline configurations, and interactions with other currents influence a current's direction and ...
Seismic oceanography is a form of acoustic oceanography, in which sound waves are used to study the physical properties and dynamics of the ocean. It provides images of changes in the temperature and salinity of seawater. Unlike most oceanographic acoustic imaging methods, which use sound waves with frequencies greater than 10,000 Hz, seismic ...
The surf zoneor breaker zoneis the nearshore part of a body of open water between the line at which the waves break and the shore. As ocean surface wavesapproach a shore, they interact with the bottom, get taller and steeper, and break, forming the foamysurface called surf. The region of breaking wavesdefines the surf zone.
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