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  2. Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kadomtsev–Petviashvili...

    In 2002, the regularized version of the KP equation, naturally referred to as the Benjamin–Bona–Mahony–Kadomtsev–Petviashvili equation (or simply the BBM-KP equation), was introduced as an alternative model for small amplitude long waves in shallow water moving mainly in the x direction in 2+1 space.

  3. Wave equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_equation

    The wave equation is a second-order linear partial differential equation for the description of waves or standing wave fields such as mechanical waves (e.g. water waves, sound waves and seismic waves) or electromagnetic waves (including light waves). It arises in fields like acoustics, electromagnetism, and fluid dynamics.

  4. List of equations in wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_equations_in_wave...

    Intuitively the wave envelope is the "global profile" of the wave, which "contains" changing "local profiles inside the global profile". Each propagates at generally different speeds determined by the important function called the dispersion relation.

  5. Boussinesq approximation (water waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boussinesq_approximation...

    The waves propagate over an elliptic-shaped underwater shoal on a plane beach. This example combines several effects of waves and shallow water, including refraction, diffraction, shoaling and weak non-linearity. In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves.

  6. Standing wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Standing_wave

    Eventually, a steady state is reached where the string has identical right- and left-traveling waves as in the infinite-length case and the power dissipated by damping in the string equals the power supplied by the driving force so the waves have constant amplitude. Equation still describes the standing wave pattern that can form on this string ...

  7. Korteweg–De Vries equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korteweg–De_Vries_equation

    Cnoidal wave solution to the Korteweg–De Vries equation, in terms of the square of the Jacobi elliptic function cn (and with value of the parameter m = 0.9). Numerical solution of the KdV equation u t + uu x + δ 2 u xxx = 0 (δ = 0.022) with an initial condition u(x, 0) = cos(πx). Time evolution was done by the Zabusky–Kruskal scheme. [1]

  8. Waves and shallow water - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waves_and_shallow_water

    After the wave breaks, it becomes a wave of translation and erosion of the ocean bottom intensifies. Cnoidal waves are exact periodic solutions to the Korteweg–de Vries equation in shallow water, that is, when the wavelength of the wave is much greater than the depth of the water.

  9. Shallow water equations - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shallow_water_equations

    Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...