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As refugiums become more common in marine aquaria, nitrate levels are easily manageable for even the novice hobbyist. Ammonia and nitrite should be tested regularly; any detectable levels (i.e., over 0 ppm) can be indicative of a problem. Nitrates should not exceed 2 ppm in reef tanks, or 20 ppm in fish-only tanks.
A common nitrate test, known as the brown ring test [2] can be performed by adding iron(II) sulfate to a solution of a nitrate, then slowly adding concentrated sulfuric acid such that the acid forms a layer below the aqueous solution. A brown ring will form at the junction of the two layers, indicating the presence of the nitrate ion. [3]
Live plants in an aquarium utilize the final product in the nitrogen cycle of nitrate as fertilizer, helping the nitrate levels stay minimal. This 60-litre (13 imp gal; 16 US gal) aquarium contains Anubias barteri and Echinodorus bleheri .
Requires brackish aquarium conditions with very low Nitrite and Nitrate levels to be kept successfully. Freshwater compromises immune system, harms puffer, and shortens life extremely. Commonly kept in freshwater. Green spotted puffer Tetraodon nigroviridis: 6" Often sold as freshwater fish, but this species actually thrives in brackish water.
In the artificial environment of the aquarium, the nitrogen cycle effectively ends with the production of nitrates. In order that the nitrate level does not build up to a harmful level regular partial water changes are required to remove the nitrates and introduce new, uncontaminated water. [8]
During the 1980s, Sera continued to broaden its offering with new lines of foods, vitamins, and technological products. Notably, the era featured the launch of the Sera Bio-Denitrator, the first device designed to biologically reduce nitrate levels in aquariums. [4] Sera products are sold in more than 80 countries. [citation needed] [5]
Schematic representation of the flow of Nitrogen through a common aquarium. Ammonia poisoning is a common fish disease in new aquariums, especially when immediately stocked to full capacity. Ideally, the level of ammonia (NH 3) and ammonium compounds (i.e. those containing NH 4 +) in fish tanks should be zero.
In particular, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, salinity, alkalinity, calcium and phosphate levels should be monitored closely. When it comes to nano reefs, even minute changes in water conditions such as mild temperature fluctuations can be problematic, whereas the greater water volume of larger aquariums provides a more stable and flexible ...
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