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  2. Stokes drift - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stokes_drift

    k is the wave number: k = 2π/λ (radians per meter), ω is the angular frequency: ω = 2π/T (radians per second), x is the horizontal coordinate and the wave propagation direction (meters), z is the vertical coordinate, with the positive z direction pointing out of the fluid layer (meters), λ is the wave length (meters), T is the wave period .

  3. Periodic function - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Periodic_function

    An illustration of a periodic function with period . A periodic function, also called a periodic waveform (or simply periodic wave), is a function that repeats its values at regular intervals or periods. The repeatable part of the function or waveform is called a cycle. [1]

  4. Wavelength - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wavelength

    The wavelength of a sine wave, λ, can be measured between any two points with the same phase, such as between crests (on top), or troughs (on bottom), or corresponding zero crossings as shown. In physics and mathematics, wavelength or spatial period of a wave or periodic function is the distance over which the wave's shape repeats.

  5. Phase (waves) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phase_(waves)

    When two signals with these waveforms, same period, and opposite phases are added together, the sum + is either identically zero, or is a sinusoidal signal with the same period and phase, whose amplitude is the difference of the original amplitudes. The phase shift of the co-sine function relative to the sine function is +90°.

  6. Periodic travelling wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Periodic_travelling_wave

    While periodic travelling waves have been known as solutions of the wave equation since the 18th century, their study in nonlinear systems began in the 1970s. A key early research paper was that of Nancy Kopell and Lou Howard [1] which proved several fundamental results on periodic travelling waves in reaction–diffusion equations.

  7. Frequency - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Frequency

    The period (symbol T) is the interval of time between events, so the period is the reciprocal of the frequency: T = 1/f. [ 2 ] Frequency is an important parameter used in science and engineering to specify the rate of oscillatory and vibratory phenomena, such as mechanical vibrations, audio signals ( sound ), radio waves , and light .

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  9. List of equations in wave theory - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_equations_in_wave...

    The phase velocity is the rate at which the phase of the wave propagates in space. The group velocity is the rate at which the wave envelope, i.e. the changes in amplitude, propagates. The wave envelope is the profile of the wave amplitudes; all transverse displacements are bound by the envelope profile.