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Martha Berry is a Cherokee beadwork artist, who has been highly influential in reviving traditional Cherokee and Southeastern beadwork, particularly techniques from the pre-Removal period. She has been recognized as a Cherokee National Treasure and is the recipient of the Seven Star Award and the Tradition Bearer Award.
Porcupine quills often adorned rawhide and tanned hides, but during the 19th century, quilled birch bark boxes were a popular trade item to sell to European-Americans among Eastern and Great Lakes tribes. Quillwork was used to create and decorate a variety of Native American items, including those of daily usage to Native American men and women.
Wampum is a traditional shell bead of the Eastern Woodlands tribes of Native Americans. It includes white shell beads hand-fashioned from the North Atlantic channeled whelk shell and white and purple beads made from the quahog or Western North Atlantic hard-shelled clam. In New York, wampum beads have been discovered dating before 1510. [1]
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The technique has been used by Native Americans and in Africa, the Middle East and South America. Guatemalan examples use beads of size 22/0 and smaller. [1] This is an off-loom technique perfected by Native Americans. It is a relative of another off-loom technique called peyote stitch or gourd stitch. [2]
With the arrival of Europeans, seed beads began to be used and traded however pre-contact traditionally styled beadwork was woven using items which included shells, seeds, and porcupine quills. With the violence of Europeans colonizing America, beading became a way for Native Americans to hold on to their cultural identity.
Example of Native American peyote stitch from Oklahoma. The peyote stitch, also known as the gourd stitch, is an off-loom bead weaving technique. Peyote stitch may be worked with either an even or an odd number of beads per row. Both even and odd count peyote pieces can be woven as flat strips, in a flat round shape, or as a tube.
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