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The tailcoat shares its historical origins in clothes cut for convenient horse-riding in the Early Modern era. From the 18th century, however, tailcoats evolved into general forms of day and evening formal wear , in parallel to how the lounge suit succeeded the frock coat (19th century) and the justacorps (18th century).
It was originally intended for warm weather use but soon spread to informal or stag winter occasions. As it was simply an evening tailcoat substitute, it was worn with all the same accoutrements as the tailcoat, including the trousers. [16] As such, in these early days, black tie, in contrast to formal white tie, was considered informal wear. [17]
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White tie, also called full evening dress or a dress suit, is the most formal evening Western dress code. [1] For men, it consists of a black tail coat (alternatively referred to as a dress coat, usually by tailors) worn over a white dress shirt with a starched or piqué bib, white piqué waistcoat and the white bow tie worn around a standing wing collar.
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Shawl lapels are a style derived from the Victorian informal evening wear, and as such are not normally seen on suit jackets except for tuxedos or dinner suits. [16] notched lapel peaked lapel shawl lapel. The width of the lapel is a varying aspect of suits, and has changed over the years.
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