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The waves propagate over an elliptic-shaped underwater shoal on a plane beach. This example combines several effects of waves and shallow water, including refraction, diffraction, shoaling and weak non-linearity. In fluid dynamics, the Boussinesq approximation for water waves is an approximation valid for weakly non-linear and fairly long waves.
Shallow-water equations can be used to model Rossby and Kelvin waves in the atmosphere, rivers, lakes and oceans as well as gravity waves in a smaller domain (e.g. surface waves in a bath). In order for shallow-water equations to be valid, the wavelength of the phenomenon they are supposed to model has to be much larger than the depth of the ...
Dispersion of gravity waves on a fluid surface. Phase and group velocity divided by shallow-water phase velocity √ gh as a function of relative depth h / λ. Blue lines (A): phase velocity; Red lines (B): group velocity; Black dashed line (C): phase and group velocity √ gh valid in shallow water.
Dispersion may be caused either by geometric boundary conditions (waveguides, shallow water) or by interaction of the waves with the transmitting medium. Elementary particles , considered as matter waves , have a nontrivial dispersion relation, even in the absence of geometric constraints and other media.
The goal of diffusion models is to learn a diffusion process for a given dataset, such that the process can generate new elements that are distributed similarly as the original dataset. A diffusion model models data as generated by a diffusion process, whereby a new datum performs a random walk with drift through the space of all possible data. [2]
The existence of sound waves in a Boussinesq fluid is not possible as sound is the result of density fluctuations within a fluid. Boussinesq flows are common in nature (such as atmospheric fronts , oceanic circulation, katabatic winds ), industry ( dense gas dispersion , fume cupboard ventilation), and the built environment (natural ventilation ...
Reaction–diffusion systems are mathematical models that correspond to several physical phenomena. The most common is the change in space and time of the concentration of one or more chemical substances: local chemical reactions in which the substances are transformed into each other, and diffusion which causes the substances to spread out ...
Non-linear kinematic wave for debris flow can be written as follows with complex non-linear coefficients: + =, where is the debris flow height, is the time, is the downstream channel position, is the pressure gradient and the depth dependent nonlinear variable wave speed, and is a flow height and pressure gradient dependent variable diffusion term.