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If the gold layer is 12 kt or higher, the minimum layer of karat gold in an item stamped gold-filled marks must equal at least 1 ⁄ 20th the total weight of the item. The most common stamps found on gold-filled jewelry are 1 ⁄ 20th 12kt GF and 1 ⁄ 20th 14kt GF. Also common is 1 ⁄ 10th 10kt. These standards are for modern gold-filled items.
Stamping (also known as pressing) is the process of placing flat sheet metal in either blank or coil form into a stamping press where a tool and die surface forms the metal into a net shape. Stamping includes a variety of sheet-metal forming manufacturing processes, such as punching using a machine press or stamping press , blanking, embossing ...
Coining can be done using a gear driven press, a mechanical press, or more commonly, a hydraulically actuated press. Coining typically requires higher tonnage presses than stamping, because the workpiece is elastically deformed and not actually cut, as in some other forms of stamping. The coining process is preferred when there is a high tonnage.
A set of "punches", that is, chisels with smooth tips that are used to push the metal: A "liner" has a flattened tip with a slightly curved blunt edge. It is used to chase narrow grooves in the metal, or to repoussé narrow ridges from the back side; both for outlining the work, and to refine edges in the final object.
2. Stamps. Stamps, like so many other collectibles, are filled with variables. Condition plays a big part in determining value, as do age and rarity.
A bezel set sapphire. The earliest known technique of attaching stones to jewelry was bezel setting. A bezel is a strip of metal bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered to the piece of jewelry. The stone is then inserted into the bezel, and the metal edge of the bezel pressed over the edge of the stone, holding it in place.
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