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  2. Significant wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height

    The RMS wave height, which is defined as square root of the average of the squares of all wave heights, is approximately equal to H s divided by 1.4. [2] [8] For example, according to the Irish Marine Institute: [9] "… at midnight on 9/12/2007 a record significant wave height was recorded of 17.2m at with [sic] a period of 14 seconds."

  3. Hudson's equation - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hudson's_equation

    H s is the design significant wave height at the toe of the structure (m) Δ is the dimensionless relative buoyant density of rock, i.e. (ρ r / ρ w - 1) = around 1.58 for granite in sea water; ρ r and ρ w are the densities of rock and (sea)water (kg/m 3) D n50 is the nominal median diameter of armor blocks = (W 50 /ρ r) 1/3 (m)

  4. Sea state - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_state

    The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.

  5. Wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_height

    Wave height. In fluid dynamics, the wave height of a surface wave is the difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighboring trough. [ 1 ]Wave height is a term used by mariners, as well as in coastal, ocean and naval engineering. At sea, the term significant wave height is used as a means to introduce a well-defined and standardized ...

  6. Wind wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave

    The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation of a sea state. Given the variability of wave height, the largest individual waves are likely to be somewhat less than twice the reported significant wave height for a particular day or storm. [7]

  7. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    The significant wave height is also the value a "trained observer" (e.g. from a ship's crew) would estimate from visual observation of a sea state. Given the variability of wave height, the largest individual waves are likely to be somewhat less than twice the significant wave height. [2] The phases of an ocean surface wave: 1.

  8. Douglas sea scale - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Douglas_sea_scale

    The Degree (D) value has an almost linear dependence on the square root of the average wave Height (H) above, i.e., +. Using linear regression on the table above, the coefficients can be calculated for the low Height values ( λ L = 2.3236 , β L = 1.2551 {\textstyle \lambda _{L}=2.3236,\beta _{L}=1.2551} ) and for the high Height values ( λ H ...

  9. Wind wave model - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave_model

    The output of a wind wave model is a description of the wave spectra, with amplitudes associated with each frequency and propagation direction. Results are typically summarized by the significant wave height, which is the average height of the one-third largest waves, and the period and propagation direction of the dominant wave.