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The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.
Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.
The Degree (D) value has an almost linear dependence on the square root of the average wave Height (H) above, i.e., +. Using linear regression on the table above, the coefficients can be calculated for the low Height values ( λ L = 2.3236 , β L = 1.2551 {\textstyle \lambda _{L}=2.3236,\beta _{L}=1.2551} ) and for the high Height values ( λ H ...
Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.
For example, in an ocean wave approaching shore, shown in the figure, the incoming wave undulates with a varying local wavelength that depends in part on the depth of the sea floor compared to the wave height. The analysis of the wave can be based upon comparison of the local wavelength with the local water depth. [10] A sinusoidal wave ...
Wave height (from trough to crest) Wave length (from crest to crest) Wave period (time interval between arrival of consecutive crests at a stationary point) Wave propagation direction; Wave length is a function of period, and of water depth for depths less than approximately half the wave length, where the wave motion is affected by friction ...
Wave growth chart based on the formulas by Groen & Dorrestein [31] Graph depicting the variation of significant wave height with dimensionless fetch based on the Young & Verhagen wave growth formula, set against a specific water depth and wind speed. In the Netherlands, a formula devised by Groen & Dorrestein (1976) is also in common use: [31]
Wave height Sea conditions Land conditions Sea conditions (photo) Associated warning flag 0 Calm < 1 knot < 1 mph < 1 km/h 0–0.2 m/s: 0 ft 0 m Sea like a mirror Smoke rises vertically 1 Light air 1–3 knots 1–3 mph 1–5 km/h 0.3–1.5 m/s 0–1 ft 0–0.3 m Ripples with appearance of scales are formed, without foam crests