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  2. Significant wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Significant_wave_height

    Significant wave height H 1/3, or H s or H sig, as determined in the time domain, directly from the time series of the surface elevation, is defined as the average height of that one-third of the N measured waves having the greatest heights: [5] / = = where H m represents the individual wave heights, sorted into descending order of height as m increases from 1 to N.

  3. Sea state - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sea_state

    The significant wave height H 1/3 — the mean wave height of the highest third of the waves. The mean wave period, T 1. In addition to the short-term wave statistics presented above, long-term sea state statistics are often given as a joint frequency table of the significant wave height and the mean wave period.

  4. Wave height - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wave_height

    Depending on context, wave height may be defined in different ways: For a sine wave, the wave height H is twice the amplitude (i.e., the peak-to-peak amplitude): [1] =.; For a periodic wave, it is simply the difference between the maximum and minimum of the surface elevation z = η(x – c p t): [1] = {()} {()}, with c p the phase speed (or propagation speed) of the wave.

  5. Wind wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave

    For weather reporting and for scientific analysis of wind wave statistics, their characteristic height over a period of time is usually expressed as significant wave height. This figure represents an average height of the highest one-third of the waves in a given time period (usually chosen somewhere in the range from 20 minutes to twelve hours ...

  6. Douglas sea scale - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Douglas_sea_scale

    The Degree (D) value has an almost linear dependence on the square root of the average wave Height (H) above, i.e., +. Using linear regression on the table above, the coefficients can be calculated for the low Height values ( λ L = 2.3236 , β L = 1.2551 {\textstyle \lambda _{L}=2.3236,\beta _{L}=1.2551} ) and for the high Height values ( λ H ...

  7. Swell (ocean) - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Swell_(ocean)

    Wave height (from trough to crest) Wave length (from crest to crest) Wave period (time interval between arrival of consecutive crests at a stationary point) Wave propagation direction; Wave length is a function of period, and of water depth for depths less than approximately half the wave length, where the wave motion is affected by friction ...

  8. Wind wave model - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wind_wave_model

    Close to the shore (beyond the Gat van Borssele), there's a tall salt marsh; at low tide, there are no waves there, at average tide, the wave height decreases to almost nothing at the dike, and at high tide, there's still a wave height of 1 m present. The measure of period shown in these graphs is the spectral period (T m-1,0).

  9. Hundred-year wave - Wikipedia

    en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hundred-year_wave

    The likelihood of this wave height being attained at least once in the hundred-year period is 63%. [1] As a projection of the most extreme wave which can be expected to occur in a given body of water, the hundred-year wave is a factor commonly taken into consideration by designers of oil platforms and other offshore structures.